Introduction
If you have chosen to replace your existing grass or you are establishing a brand new lawn, the better your preparation, the better the end result. Taking shortcuts could result in poor turf establishment and greater inputs of water, fertiliser and labour. Here are a few tips to you get a beautiful healthy lawn.
Soil Preparation
If you are starting on a new area with no grass it is important to ensure the soil you have is suitable. If you have heavy clay you may need to add a good layer of under turf mix. You should have a minimum of 100mm of good growing medium. To achieve this and still maintain your levels, you may need to excavate some of the clay. It is important that the clay surface is free of weeds and other rubbish, then lightly scarify the clay to ensure that you do not place your new soil mix over a hard compacted layer. Before placing new soil mix apply Gypsum over the loose clay at 1kg per m2.
If you choose to use your existing soil, thoroughly eradicate any grass and weeds by applying two applications of Roundup/Glyphosate non-residual spray, spaced 10 days apart. See your local nurseryman for advice and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. After the suggested waiting time remove the dead surface.
Clay type soils should have Gypsum added at the rate of 1kg to 1m2 plus a 50mm layer of good under turf mix spread evenly over the area and thoroughly rotary hoe or dig into the top 100mm of clay base. In a poor soil situation it is essential to replace or rejuvenate the base to a depth of 100-110mm.
To avoid drainage problems, ensure soil gradient slopes away from housing foundations or pathways. Rake and lightly roll the area. High spots should be evened off and low ones filled in until the area is firm and level. Final levels should be approximately 25mm below pathways/boundaries if you want to match up to existing levels.
Before laying apply a starter fertiliser (only use a recognised stater fertiliser as some general fertilisers my burn the roots of your new turf), or a generous layer of pelleted chicken manure. Lightly water the prepared area to settle the soil and provide a moist base for your turf. The prepared base must be firm enough to walk on without leaving deep footprints.
Laying your new turf
When turf is delivered place pallets in the shade before installation to protect the un-laid turf from sun damage. On slopes, place the turf pieces across the slope. Begin your installation as soon as possible, laying the turf along the longest straight line like a fence, pathway or paved area. Lay rows in a staggered brick pattern, making sure all joins are butted tightly together with no overlapping. Make sure to avoid gaps and overlapping. Use a large sharp knife (or edge of shovel) to trim corners and excess turf. After the installation of the turf, roll the entire area to improve turf-soil contact. Begin watering within 20 minutes of installation.
In order to establish your new Limerick turf you should water thoroughly as soon as possible and keep moist until the turf puts down new roots. Do not allow turf to dry out. Once the new deep root system is fully established Limerick will only need to be watered as the soil dries out. In most areas this will be every 7 – 10 days, but will vary.(More often in light and sandy soils) Give your Limerick lawn a deep watering when slight wilting is visible. For the best lawn and deep root establishment apply less frequent, but deep watering. This will reduce excessive growth, disease and root rot. For best results, water in the early morning rather than evenings. Avoid night time watering.
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